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Klipsch Speaker TERMINAL ProMedia 2.1 BLOCK Satellite Module Plug 3 Types NEW
$10.53 $17.55
- Product Code: Klipsch
- Availability: 534
- Price in reward points: 44219
- 1000 Units in Stock
- Type:Surround/Satellite
- Compatible Model:ProMedia 2.1
- Brand:Klipsch
- MPN:Does Not Apply
- Item must be returned within:30 Days
- Model:ProMedia 2.1
- Condition:New
- Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer
- Restocking Fee:No
- All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
- Refund will be given as:Money back or replacement (buyer's choice)
- Connectivity:Wired
This listing is for a new left and right satellite speaker
terminal
and matching
wiring harness
for a ProMedia 2.1 amplifier panel.
If your Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 system built from 2000-2018 has a broken speaker terminal(s) for the subwoofer's satellite speaker output, this new
terminal
can replace that.
There are two most common versions of ProMedia 2.1, as well as a third, the BT Bluetooth version. While the visible terminal portion on the outside is identical for all three versions, internally each version uses its own plug and cable to connect to the rest of the amplifier.
Please be sure before you order
, that you verify which version you have, so you select the correct terminal option in this listing.
How to determine which version you need:
If your amplifier
has
a rocker-type
power switch
on the back, it is the
original
version. Order that terminal kit, (either with or without a gasket for the amplifier panel).
If your amplifier does
not
have a power switch on the back
, it
is likely
the
newer
version, which was built through mid-2018. The ProMedia 2.1 BT (Bluetooth) uses a yet a different internal plug. If your system is even newer than mid-2018, contact Klipsch for parts. Removing 8 screws around the outer edge of the panel (with system unplugged) will allow you to remove the panel, look inside and verify the type of plug your amplifier needs for the speaker terminal. Compare that to the three versions in this listing. Note: on older subwoofers, the amplifier's gasket can stick. You may need to pry the amplifier away from the enclosure (after removing the outer 8 mounting screws). I have new gasket tape as an option for replacing old, brittle or compressed gaskets. A seal is important to avoid air noise when the sub is playing.
One more clue about type: the original version amplifier is also much heavier. The complete sub weighs 17 pounds. The newer version weighs only about 11.5 pounds.
The original terminal is attached to the amplifier panel with thick double-sided foam tape and a small circuit board that serves as a base for the tape and the terminal. Heat and age cause that foam eventually to become hard, brittle, and shrink, losing its ability to create an airtight seal. (See a sample photo of how that foam dries and shrinks.) This replacement design avoids that problem. You may need to peel, cut or scrape away the original terminal's foam tape so that this terminal can mount flush to the panel for an airtight seal. A heat gun or hair dryer can soften the adhesive for you. After mounting the replacement speaker terminal block, add a bead of adhesive (included) around the edge of the terminal, to seal this terminal to the enclosure. There is no need for the original circuit board base for the speaker terminal, since the foam tape has been eliminated.
Two pairs of 3 mm steel bolts and nuts are included to mount this terminal to the panel. The original screws will not be reused.
Gasket Option
If you need new
gasket
material for sealing the amplifier panel to the subwoofer enclosure (the original can become compressed and hard), I have added the option to add a fresh gasket (4 pieces, self-adhesive) for $1.90. An airtight seal is needed for both the speaker terminal to the panel, and for the back panel to the enclosure. The original gasket can harden and compress. A leak is likely to produce noise as the subwoofer operates. Removing the old gasket can be very simple (the flattened four strips barely have any grip to the aluminum panel), or can be a challenge (if the gasket has cooked and become brittle). Hardened gasket material can be chipped off, heated and peeled, or a fresh gasket can be mounted on top of the old, flat gasket.
Repair Option: Kit Credit
If you purchase a 1st or 2nd Generation terminal kit here, and then discover that your system needs further repair, you may apply
half the value
of the kit toward the cost to have me repair your amplifier panel and/or preamplifier control pod. Just contact me via the email or phone number included on my business card with your kit. While I cannot recover what was already paid to Ebay, Paypal and USPS for the kit, I can credit $10-$15 from your purchase here toward repair. 1st Generation will include typically over 20 upgraded parts plus a Noctua cooling fan and cost about $110 plus shipping. A 2nd Generation repair will have a pair of upgraded parts and cost about $50-$70 plus shipping (before applying the terminal credit). I can create a custom ebay listing for you, if interested.
terminal
and matching
wiring harness
for a ProMedia 2.1 amplifier panel.
If your Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 system built from 2000-2018 has a broken speaker terminal(s) for the subwoofer's satellite speaker output, this new
terminal
can replace that.
There are two most common versions of ProMedia 2.1, as well as a third, the BT Bluetooth version. While the visible terminal portion on the outside is identical for all three versions, internally each version uses its own plug and cable to connect to the rest of the amplifier.
Please be sure before you order
, that you verify which version you have, so you select the correct terminal option in this listing.
How to determine which version you need:
If your amplifier
has
a rocker-type
power switch
on the back, it is the
original
version. Order that terminal kit, (either with or without a gasket for the amplifier panel).
If your amplifier does
not
have a power switch on the back
, it
is likely
the
newer
version, which was built through mid-2018. The ProMedia 2.1 BT (Bluetooth) uses a yet a different internal plug. If your system is even newer than mid-2018, contact Klipsch for parts. Removing 8 screws around the outer edge of the panel (with system unplugged) will allow you to remove the panel, look inside and verify the type of plug your amplifier needs for the speaker terminal. Compare that to the three versions in this listing. Note: on older subwoofers, the amplifier's gasket can stick. You may need to pry the amplifier away from the enclosure (after removing the outer 8 mounting screws). I have new gasket tape as an option for replacing old, brittle or compressed gaskets. A seal is important to avoid air noise when the sub is playing.
One more clue about type: the original version amplifier is also much heavier. The complete sub weighs 17 pounds. The newer version weighs only about 11.5 pounds.
The original terminal is attached to the amplifier panel with thick double-sided foam tape and a small circuit board that serves as a base for the tape and the terminal. Heat and age cause that foam eventually to become hard, brittle, and shrink, losing its ability to create an airtight seal. (See a sample photo of how that foam dries and shrinks.) This replacement design avoids that problem. You may need to peel, cut or scrape away the original terminal's foam tape so that this terminal can mount flush to the panel for an airtight seal. A heat gun or hair dryer can soften the adhesive for you. After mounting the replacement speaker terminal block, add a bead of adhesive (included) around the edge of the terminal, to seal this terminal to the enclosure. There is no need for the original circuit board base for the speaker terminal, since the foam tape has been eliminated.
Two pairs of 3 mm steel bolts and nuts are included to mount this terminal to the panel. The original screws will not be reused.
Gasket Option
If you need new
gasket
material for sealing the amplifier panel to the subwoofer enclosure (the original can become compressed and hard), I have added the option to add a fresh gasket (4 pieces, self-adhesive) for $1.90. An airtight seal is needed for both the speaker terminal to the panel, and for the back panel to the enclosure. The original gasket can harden and compress. A leak is likely to produce noise as the subwoofer operates. Removing the old gasket can be very simple (the flattened four strips barely have any grip to the aluminum panel), or can be a challenge (if the gasket has cooked and become brittle). Hardened gasket material can be chipped off, heated and peeled, or a fresh gasket can be mounted on top of the old, flat gasket.
Repair Option: Kit Credit
If you purchase a 1st or 2nd Generation terminal kit here, and then discover that your system needs further repair, you may apply
half the value
of the kit toward the cost to have me repair your amplifier panel and/or preamplifier control pod. Just contact me via the email or phone number included on my business card with your kit. While I cannot recover what was already paid to Ebay, Paypal and USPS for the kit, I can credit $10-$15 from your purchase here toward repair. 1st Generation will include typically over 20 upgraded parts plus a Noctua cooling fan and cost about $110 plus shipping. A 2nd Generation repair will have a pair of upgraded parts and cost about $50-$70 plus shipping (before applying the terminal credit). I can create a custom ebay listing for you, if interested.
